Calling all walkers-walking with a difference! Let Shane and his wife Ollie introduce you to the delights of walking on the most westerly and smallest of the Canary Islands. Guaranteed – no tourists/ no English Pubs/ no Irish Bars/ no traffic. Guaranteed- expert local knowledge of the history and geography of the island/ stunning scenery/ excellent food/ friendly and welcoming locals.
After a 4hr flight from Gatwick to Tenerife, we were picked up at the airport by Shane and driven to our hotel- Hotel Andreas in Los Cristianos. We had an evening to explore the many eateries and bars of the town before being picked up next morning by Ollie to be driven to the harbour to board the fast ferry to El Hierro. Here we met the rest of the group and got to know each other over breakfast on the deck of the ferry whilst admiring views of the volcanic mountains shimmering in the distance.
After a 2hr voyage we arrived at Puerta dela Estaca on the island of El Hierro. A car journey of about 45mins took us to the seafront apartments in the quiet fishing village of La Restinga [ Europe’s most southerly village [28° N ] ]. Our first walk was scheduled for the next day- so there was ample time to stock up on basic provisions at the local supermarket and take a stroll along the seafront to take in the local sights. I enjoyed a quick dip in the surprisingly warm Atlantic Ocean although the black sand of the local beach was a novelty.
7-8pm is Happy Hour and Shane and Ollie throw open their apartment and provide drinks and nibbles and an opportunity for the group to get even better acquainted. Dinner at the local pizzeria washed down with the local dry white wine- El Frontera- was excellent. Shane persuaded most of us to try another local speciality- a liqueur mysteriously called No. 43.
Next morning we met at 9.30 on the seafront outside the apartments. This was going to be an introductory walk of about 6 miles. The start was at the island’s capital- Valverde (have a look at the church- it is stunning) We followed the road climbing up out of the town and towards the interior of the island. We then turned right leaving the road to follow one of the island’s many goat- tracks which have recently been restored by the Island Council and are clearly waymarked. ( Red- difficult, yellow- intermediate and white- easy.) We passed local houses with gardens growing wonderful fruits and vegetables in the fertile volcanic soil. We saw peppers, chillies, melons, oranges, lemons and everywhere the ubiquitous prickly-pear cactus. After a packed lunch at the tiny village of Echedo, followed by a coffee at the quaintly named ‘ My Grandmother’s Fig Tree’ we were ready for the off.
I was grateful for the walking pole lent to me by one of the group, for now the going got a bit tougher! Walking poles are essential- not so much for the going up but definitely for the going down. The goat paths consist of large smooth stones embedded in the earth and can be quite slippery- especially if wet. On the mountainsides the paths are volcanic cinder and dust which is quite loose and rolls away as you step on to it. The poles are useful to anchor yourself. Shane suggests a ‘ platypus system’ to keep yourself hydrated- much better than having to keep stopping to take a water bottle out of your knapsack. It is hot and you need to drink a lot and there’s not always a convenient watering – hole en route. We began to ascend and turning a corner emerged on the side of one of the island’s volcanic mountains. The views down to our destination (Charcho Manso) were stunning. The island’s only airstrip is not far away and it was quite novel to have a bird’s eye view of an aeroplane coming in to land. The descent was hot, dusty and steep- so a plunge into the cool, clear waters of the harbour was more than welcome. Back in Restinga that evening, over a glass of the local wine, everyone had a tale to tell.
Unfortunately, the next day I was due back in Tenerife. The rest of the group were looking forward to a full days walking along one of the many ridgeways that criss- cross the island. I said a sad farewell to my wonderful hosts- Shane and Ollie and to my new found friends and of course to the stunning El Hierro. I will be back. Try it for yourself!